Dinner last night at Elettaria on West 8th Street.  The large open kitchen acts as an eye magnet where chef Akhtar Nawab and his acolytes bend studiously over myriads of small plates. Unfortunately, the mix of spices and ingredients, many reminiscent of the chef’s Indian background, sound better than they taste. The “Parisiennes” gnocchi dotting the crabmeat resala mimic mini fried profiteroles; the steamed rice cakes with lentils, tomatoes, ginger and garlic feel as displaced as a soggy couscous, and some combinations just don’t work. As my kind friend says, “This is a work in progress.”

And that leads me to the most enjoyable meal I’ve had in weeks. I don’t know the chef’s name, I don’t care whether he opens a new branch in Dubai next year, and he sure didn’t invent any of the dishes on the menu, but dinner at Bistro Citron on Columbus Avenue just hits my spot. The Caesar salad comes encased in a cheesy tuile-like bowl with just the right ratio of dressing to croutons to leaves; the fragrant coq au vin encased on a fresh noodle nest reminds me of my grandmother’s and a simple tarte au citron sings of the Riviera.

# posted by Sylvie Bigar : 1:59 PM  0 Comments