Even though the kitchen seemed a bit distracted today, it’s always fun to sit at the counter at Casa Mono and watch the action. At this early Batali/Bastianich & Co. venture, chef Andy Nusser prepares elastic and garlicky razor clams on the grill, so easy to make I will try soon. The gorgeous heirloom tomatoes I saw earlier at the Union Square Market are now sliced and mounted as a delicious bicolor tower of Pisa. Too bad the kitchen forgot the marinated anchovies on top. My personal challenge? No olive oil sopping with that crunchy bread. 52 Irving Place, 212-253-2773

This week, in between backpacks, elusive transparent book covers and cafeteria horror stories, I stole a few hours and a few bites:

Le Cirque

Fabulous sophisticated solo lunch break at the bar of Le Cirque. The Caesar Salad à la Maccioni comes with plump marinated anchovies fresh with vinegar hints, not the desiccated bony ones, accompanied by a circular crouton halo holding a sunny pudgy egg yolk in its mist. With a drink and the best espresso della città, the tab comes to $22. Completely worth it. 151 East 58^th Street, 212-644-0202

Matsugen

It’s official, I’m not a soba fan. That said, I’m a Jean-Georges fan and find plenty to savor at the new Japanese outpost he runs with the Matsushita Brothers. Homemade tofu, both soft and firm delicately served in a wooden basket leaves soft milky whey on the tongue, a perfect preamble to the bakudan (bomb in Japanese), a bowl of uni, salmon roe, baby scallops, and poached egg. I am told to mix it all up and wrap it in the rectangular nori sheets that rest on a heating vessel. Ever tried to wrap goo in crispy seaweed? It’s not pretty but is it good! 241 Church Street, 212-925-0202